Women’s jacket fabrics for Spring/Summer 2026-27 by Drapers

For Spring/Summer 2026-27 season, Drapers emphasizes a thematic shift toward ‘Material Honesty’ and ‘Paradox,’ where the primary focus is on blending raw, unrefined textures with hyper-technical performance. For women’s jackets and outerwear, this translates into a move away from basic fillers toward high-value, intentional fabrics that serve both aesthetic and functional purposes.
The ‘Paradox’ material palette
The overarching design direction for S/S 26/27, as tracked by Drapers, is the reconciliation of extremes. This are seen as:
- Climate-adaptive wool: Challenging the myth that wool is only for winter, designers are using ultra-light merino blends and open-weave wool checks. These fabrics are engineered for moisture management and a ‘dry’ hand-feel, perfect for humid spring days.
- Brut denim: A dominant movement in cotton. This focuses on unwashed, untreated, and stiff raw denim, favoring head-to-toe raw looks that prioritize durability and a garment that evolves over time, a clear nod to the slow fashion movement.
- Technical cotton: Cotton bases are being upgraded with applied films or woven with thermoregulating yarns, allowing for structured, sculptural silhouettes (like bubble-hems and ripple-folds) that hold their shape without adding weight.
Tactile & ‘Touch-Me’ surfaces
Drapers highlight a shift toward emotional textiles that feel lived-in and hand-crafted.
- Tactile allure: Expect to see three-dimensional jacquards, wool-blend bouclés with frayed hemlines, and fabrics with subtle crinkles or pigment-washed finishes.
- Nostalgic ‘Nani-core:’ Inspired by domestic comfort, this trend leans into fine cotton poplins, voiles, and lawns featuring quiet, sentimental details like shadow appliqué, tone-on-tone patchwork, and hand-drawn geometrics.
Fabric blends for outerwear
To meet the demand for performance-driven luxury, Drapers identifies two hero blends for the season:
- Cotton-linen blends: The gold standard for S/S 26, balancing a relaxed, earthy surface aesthetic with the functional benefit of reduced wrinkling.
Cotton-modal/silk blends: Frequently referred to as ‘silkies,’ these provide the fluid, luxurious drape of silk but retain the breathability and moisture-wicking properties of cotton, making them ideal for unlined, lightweight spring jackets.