Textile Standards And Specification

In the vast world of textile testing, ensuring a fabric's resilience against environmental stressors is paramount. Among these critical assessments, AATCC Test Method 23, ‘Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes,’ stands out as a crucial indicator of how textiles, particularly those containing certain dyes, will withstand exposure to the byproducts of burning natural gas. While not as universally recognized as light-fastness or wash-fastness, this test holds significant weight for textiles intended for environments where gas combustion is prevalent, such as homes with gas appliances, industrial settings, or even vehicles.

In the world of textiles and apparel, the performance and durability of fabric color under various environmental conditions are critical indicators of quality. One of the most important assessments in this regard is AATCC TM16 – Colorfastness to Light, a standardized test method developed by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). This test evaluates how well a fabric or dyed material resists fading when exposed to light, particularly sunlight or artificial light sources.

In the textile industry, one of the most essential aspects of fabric performance is its resistance to water exposure. Established by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), the AATCC TM107 test method evaluates a fabric's colorfastness to water, helping manufacturers ensure that dyes remain stable and do not bleed or fade when wet.

Often simply called the ‘Colorfastness to Light test’, AATCC Test Method 16 (TM16) is a cornerstone standard in the textile industry.  Developed by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), this method evaluates how well textile materials resist fading or changing color when exposed to light. In a competitive global market, where product quality, longevity, and aesthetic appeal are paramount, AATCC TM16 plays a vital role in ensuring product durability and ultimately, customer satisfaction.

Often simply referred to as ‘crocking,’ AATCC Test Method 8 (AATCC TM8) is a widely recognized and essential procedure for evaluating colorfastness to crocking. It describes a fabric's ability to resist the transfer of color from its surface to another material or object through rubbing.  The standardized approach : Developed by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), the ‘Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method,’ AATCC TM8 is applicable to textiles made from all fiber types, whether dyed, printed, or otherwise colored, and can be used for yarn or fabric forms.

There are two key ISO standards used to determine the linear density of linen fibers: ISO 1973:2021 (and its previous edition ISO 1973:1995): Textile fibers — determination of linear density — gravimetric method and vibroscope method. This standard specifies two methods for determining the linear density (mass per unit l   length) of textile fibers, including linen. Gravimetric method: This direct method involves weighing a known length of fibers. It's applicable to bundles of fibers.  

To determine the fiber content in linen fibers, especially in blended yarns or fabrics, the ASTM provides several standard test methods that focus on quantitative chemical analysis and microscopic identification. These are particularly useful when flax (linen) is blended with fibers like cotton, polyester, viscose, or synthetics.

To determine the durability of polyester fibers, several ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) standards are commonly used. These standards test different aspects of durability, such as abrasion resistance, tensile strength, tear strength, pilling, and chemical resistance.

Linear density of polyester fibers refers to the mass per unit length of the fiber. It indicates how heavy a fiber is for a given length and is a fundamental property used to describe the thickness or fineness of a fiber or filament. Measuring linear density not only helps classify fibers as fine or coarse but is also essential for yarn spinning, fabric design, and quality control in textiles. There are several ASTM standards that can be used to determine the linear density of polyester fibers.

To measure the flammability of polyester fibers, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) provides specific standards focused on textile burning behavior. These standards help assess the ease of ignition, flame spread, after-flame time, and damage characteristics of polyester and other synthetic fibers in fabric or raw form.

When it comes to measuring the colorfastness of polyester fibers, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) provides a set of crucial standards within the ISO 105 series. Specific areas where ISO standards apply to polyester fibers: Colorfastness: The ISO 105 series is crucial for determining colorfastness. These standards detail test methods for how polyester fabrics react to various conditions like washing, rubbing, light, and perspiration.  

The tensile strength of polyester fibers is determined using ASTM standards that evaluate the force required to break a fiber, yarn, or fabric. Here are the relevant ASTM standards:

Here’s a detailed breakdown of the ISO standards used to determine cotton staple length, including methodologies, applications, and key benefits of each standard.

Fabric shrinkage means the change in dimensions that a fabric undergoes, often as a result of laundering or other care procedures. This change can affect the fit and appearance of garments. There are several factors that can influence how much a fabric shrinks. A few of these include:

The Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI) has released a comprehensive study analyzing how Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and carbon footprint standards address renewable carbon sources, including carbon from biomass, carbon capture, or recycling.

The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) have several standardized test methods to evaluate fabric shrinkage.

The tensile strength of silk fiber is typically measured using standardized test methods set by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). The relevant ISO standards include: ISO 2062: Textiles—Yarns from packages—Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester: This is highly relevant when testing the tensile properties of silk yarns, this standard provides a method to detemine the breaking force and elongation of single yarns. It’s an important standard as before being woven into a fabric silk is in the yarn form.  

Wool yarn strength depends on many factors, including the type of wool, the way the yarn is spun, and the number of plies. The strength of wool yarn can be measured using a tensile tester, which applies force to the yarn until it breaks. The maximum force required to break the yarn is recorded as its tensile strength. Wool yarn strength can vary widely. Here's a breakdown of the key ISO standards that determine wool yarn strength and what they cover: ISO 2062: Textiles - Yarns from packages

Measuring cotton yarn strength according to ISO standards involves a systematic process to ensure accuracy and consistency. Here's a breakdown of the key steps involved in this process: Sampling: It's crucial to obtain a representative sample of cotton yarn from the lot you're testing. The sampling method should ensure that the yarn specimens accurately reflect the overall quality and characteristics of the yarn batch.

An important factor in determining the performance of wool in textiles, wool fiber strength determines how well wool performs in various applications, from clothing to carpets. It also determines how this strength influences factors like durability, resilience, and how the wool feels. To measure this wool fiber strength, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has introduced certain standards.