AATCC TM132: Ensuring colorfastness in drycleaning
A standard test method developed by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, AATCC Test Method 132: Colorfastness to Drycleaning determines how well the color of a textile material withstands the effects of drycleaning.
Purpose and principle
This test method is designed to evaluate the colorfastness of textiles to all types of drycleaning. It's important to note that it's not intended for assessing the durability of textile finishes or the resistance of colors to spot and stain removal procedures used by drycleaners. However, it does provide an indication of the results expected from multiple commercial drycleanings.
The principle behind AATCC Test Method 132 involves simulating the mechanical and chemical actions of a typical drycleaning process. A specimen of the textile material, along with a multifiber test fabric (which consists of different fiber types) and non-corrodible steel balls, is agitated in a solution of perchloroethylene (a common drycleaning solvent) and a detergent.
After agitation, the specimen is air-dried.
Procedure and evaluation
Here's a general overview of the procedure:
- Preparation: Three specimens of the textile (typically 10 x 5 cm) are cut. A multifiber test fabric is attached to each specimen.
- Agitation: The specimen, multifiber fabric, and steel balls are placed in a standard stainless steel container. A specified amount of perchloroethylene detergent solution is added to the container. The container is then sealed and agitated in a Launder-Ometer (a specialized testing machine) at a controlled temperature for a set duration (e.g., 30 minutes at 30°C).
- Drying: After agitation, the specimen is removed, blotted to remove excess solvent, and then air-dried in a well-ventilated hood at a controlled temperature.
- Conditioning: The dried specimens are conditioned under standard atmospheric conditions (e.g., 65% RH and 20°C) before evaluation.
- Evaluation:
- Color loss: The color change of the test specimen itself is assessed visually using the Gray Scale for Color Change. This scale ranges from Grade 5 (no color loss) to Grade 1 (noticeable or heavy color loss).
- Staining: Any staining on the adjacent multifiber test fabric is evaluated using the Gray scale for staining or the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. This also ranges from Grade 5 (no staining) to Grade 1 (noticeable or heavy staining).
- The observations from the multiple specimens are averaged to provide a final rating.
Its importance
AATCC Test Method 132 is crucial for several reasons:
- Care labeling: The information derived from this test method is essential for creating accurate garment care labels, helping consumers understand how to properly care for their textile products.
- Quality assurance: It provides a standardized procedure for quality assurance in the textile industry, ensuring that fabrics meet specific colorfastness requirements.
- Industry standards: It is widely used by fiber and textile manufacturers, dye manufacturers, and retailers to ensure product durability and performance in professional textile care.
- International recognition: While AATCC is based in the US, its test methods, including TM 132, are internationally recognized and often align with or complement ISO standards (e.g., ISO 105-D01).
By conducting this test, manufacturers can ensure that their textile products maintain their color integrity when subjected to drycleaning, contributing to product longevity and consumer satisfaction.