How to deal with issues in production of core-spun yarns due to high conversions costs

In 2026, while the core-spun yarn segment remains highly lucrative due to the demand for stretch and performance fabrics, spinners are navigating a complex landscape of high conversion costs and technical hurdles. Elastic variants of core-spun yarns using spandex or elastane require specialized handling that traditional spinning systems often struggle to execute cost-effectively.

Primary challenges in core-spun production

Core Spun Yarn production involves twisting staple fibers (the sheath) around a central filament (the core). This process introduces several technical challenges that drive up the "cost per kg":

  • Quality defects: Grin-through: A failure of aesthetics where the core filament becomes visible through the sheath, often due to improper centering or low pre-tension.
    • Strip-back (Barberpole Effect): A critical functional defect where sheath fibers slip along the filament, leaving bare sections. This often necessitates reducing production speeds, which directly increases per-unit costs.
  • Complex spinning geometry: Spinners face the dual challenge of managing the ‘V-zone’ under the front drafting roller nip. Inaccurate alignment leads to improper positioning, resulting in uneven yarn properties and high waste levels.
  • Energy and maintenance intensive: Specialized machines like compact or vortex systems demand high capital. Ring spinning frames for CSY consume significantly more power - often 2.5–3.57 kWh/kg - with up to 85 per cent of that power used solely to drive spindles at the speeds required for high-twist core yarns.
  • Elastane control issues: Insufficient tension causes the core to buckle or wrap irregularly (leading to ‘core/sheath voids’), while excessive tension leads to filament breakage. Optimizing this requires expensive real-time monitoring attachments.

Strategies to mitigate high conversion costs

To maintain EBITDA margins - which are currently under strain across the industry - spinners are adopting the following operational and technological strategies:

  • Precision performance kits: Implementing upgrades like the Ring Frame Spinning Angle Conversion or pneumatic compacting systems (e.g., Suessen EliTe). These kits enhance fiber control in the drafting zone, reducing imperfections by up to 40 per cent and allowing for higher production speeds without risking strip-back.
  • Industry 4.0 and AI-driven automation: Transitioning to Auto Doffing and Bobbin Transport Systems (BTS) reduces manual intervention. In an environment where skilled labor is in short supply, these systems ensure operational consistency and lower labor-to-output ratios.
  • Energy optimization: Integrating Variable Frequency Drives (VFDs) and high-efficiency motors helps reduce the power load. Additionally, using spindles with smaller wharve diameters (e.g., 17.5 mm) can significantly cut energy consumption during the high-speed twisting process.
  • Strategic fiber blending: To offset the high cost of premium raw materials, spinners are using real-time analytics to optimize the core-sheath ratio. A 1:1 ratio is often preferred to minimize stripping problems while maintaining a cost-effective balance of materials.
  • Alternative spinning systems: While ring spinning is standard for fine counts, Rotor (Open-End) spinning is increasingly utilized for coarser core yarns (above 60 tex) as it can be up to 28 per cent more energy-efficient and eliminates the need for rewinding.

Sector outlook 2026

Despite high conversion costs, the elastic core-spun segment is expected to command a dominant market share this year. Leading firms like VTM and Vardhman Textiles are increasingly investing in modular, AI-integrated production facilities that can quickly switch between yarn types, allowing them to service niche markets in medical and performance textiles where premium pricing offsets the manufacturing overhead.