Navigating needle damage while weaving with spandex blends

Spandex, renowned for its exceptional elasticity, adds a desirable stretch to woven fabrics. However, its incorporation into yarn blends poses significant challenges for weavers, particularly concerning needle damage. Listed below are the few common issues faced while weaving with spandex blends and offers solutions to mitigate needle breakage and extend needle life.

Why is spandex tough on needles?

Spandex fibers, while strong, lack abrasion resistance. This characteristic causes them to act like sandpaper on needles, wearing down the sharp points and hooks more quickly than other fibers like cotton or polyester. Here’s a breakdown of the key factors behind needle damage:

High elasticity: Spandex yarns stretch considerably during weaving, placing immense stress on needles. This constant flexing can cause the needles to bend or break prematurely.

Low abrasion resistance: The smooth spandex fibers wear down the grooves and dull the sharp tip of needles, reducing their penetration ability. This leads to yarn slippage, missed picks, and needle breakage.

Heat generation: Friction between the yarn and needle generates heat, especially at high weaving speeds. This heat softens the spandex fibers, exacerbating abrasion and further reducing needle life.

Weaving woes: A data-driven look at problems

Here’s how needle damage impacts weaving efficiency and fabric quality:

These figures highlight the significant impact needle damage can have on weaving efficiency and fabric quality.

Real-world examples of spandex challenges

• Case Study 1: The activewear struggle

A manufacturer producing activewear with 20 per cent spandex content faced frequent needle breakage and missed picks, resulting in production delays, increased costs, and inconsistent fabric quality.

Solution: The manufacturer implemented a three-pronged approach:

Needle selection: Switched to needles designed for synthetic yarns, with a thicker shank and blunted tip.

Weaving parameter adjustments: Reduced loom speed and optimized machine tension to minimize stress on needles.

Textile lubricant: Applied a light coating of a lubricant specifically formulated for synthetic yarns to reduce friction and heat generation.

Outcome: Needle breakage decreased by 30 per cent, missed picks became negligible, and fabric quality improved significantly.

Case Study 2: The swimwear snag

A swimwear manufacturer using a 15 per cent spandex blend encountered sewing difficulties due to uneven yarn placement from worn needles. This resulted in snags and tears during garment assembly, causing production delays and customer dissatisfaction.

Solution: The manufacturer adopted a stricter needle inspection and replacement schedule, combined with regular cleaning to remove yarn debris. Additionally, they explored core-spun yarns, where spandex is encased in a protective sheath of another fiber.

Outcome: By focusing on preventative maintenance and exploring alternative yarns, the manufacturer minimized sewing problems and ensured consistent fabric quality.

How to combat needle damage

To tackle needle damage and ensure smooth weaving with spandex blends, consider the following strategies:

Select needles wisely: Use needles designed for synthetic yarns, with a thicker shank, larger eye, and blunted tip.

Optimize weaving parameters: Reduce weaving speed, adjust machine tension, and optimize shed opening for smooth yarn passage.

Apply textile lubricants: Apply a light coating of lubricant specifically formulated for synthetic yarns.

Clean needles regularly: Regularly clean needles, inspect frequently for wear, and replace them promptly.

Explore alternative yarns: Consider core-spun yarns or yarns with lower spandex content to minimize abrasion.

By implementing these solutions and learning from real-world examples, weavers can navigate the challenges of spandex and achieve successful production of high-quality, stretchy fabrics.