Global fiber production hits record high, raising concerns for sustainability

Global fiber production witnessed a historic peak of 124 million tons in 2023, almost a 7 per cent increase from the previous year reveals Textile Exchange's latest Materials Market Report. However, this unprecedented growth has raised alarms about the industry's sustainability efforts, particularly because of the dominance of virgin fossil-based synthetics and the limitations of textile-to-textile recycling. The report paints a complex picture of the fiber landscape, highlighting both progress and persistent challenges.

Record global fiber production

• Production doubles: Global fiber production has more than doubled since 2000, with 2023's output being an all-time high. This trend shows no signs of slowing down, with projections indicating a further increase to 160 million tons by 2030.
• Synthetics reigns supreme: Virgin fossil-based synthetics, primarily polyester, continue to dominate the market. Polyester alone accounts for 57 per cent of total fiber production, increasing from 67 million tons in 2022 to 75 million tons in 2023.
• Recycling challenges: Despite growing awareness about the need for circularity, recycled fibers are struggling to gain traction. Recycled polyester's market share dipped from 13.6 per cent to 12.5 per cent in 2023, while recycled polyamide (nylon) constitutes a mere 2 per cent of the total market. This stagnation is attributed to the lower cost of virgin synthetics and limitations in current recycling technologies.
• Cotton's decline: Cotton production experienced a slight dip, falling from 25.1 million tons in 2022 to 24.4 million tons in 2023. However, the share of sustainably produced cotton remained stable at 29 per cent.
• Wool and other fibers: Certified wool production under sustainability programs showed positive growth, increasing from 4.2 per cent in 2022 to 4.8 per cent in 2023. Similarly, certified mohair and cashmere both achieved a significant market share of 47 per cent.
• Growth in manmade cellulosic fibers: Manmade Cellulosic Fibers or (MMCF) overall production increased, accounting for 6 per cent of the global fiber market.

Table: Global fiber production in 2023           

What’s behind the shift

The report's findings underscore a critical disconnect between the industry's sustainability aspirations and its current practices. The continued dominance of virgin fossil-based synthetics, despite their significant environmental impact, is a major cause for concern.  As Claire Bergkamp, CEO, Textile Exchange opines, "We hope this data serves as a clear call to action for the industry, highlighting both the successes and the critical areas where we must intensify our focus to meet climate targets.”

There are several reasons for this shift. Lower price of virgin synthetics compared to recycled alternatives and natural fibers remains a significant barrier to sustainable sourcing. Then there are technological limitations as current recycling technologies are not advanced enough to handle the complexities of textile-to-textile recycling at scale, hindering the growth of recycled fiber market.

While consumer awareness of sustainability is growing, it hasn't translated into widespread demand for eco-friendly products that can incentivize large-scale shifts in production practices. And there is a lack of policy support. Policies and regulations that incentivize sustainable fiber production and recycling are crucial but currently lacking in many regions.

As Bergkamp points out, “Unlocking textile-to-textile recycling pathways will be essential to reducing reliance on virgin synthetics. Equally important is continuing to support those on the ground who are driving the transition from conventional systems to preferred materials. It is more urgent than ever to support those who have already invested in preferred systems, while also enabling the transition away from conventional at scale.”

The report serves as a clarion call for the industry to accelerate its transition towards sustainable practices. The focus should be on unlocking textile-to-textile recycling. In fact, overcoming technological barriers and creating economically viable solutions for textile-to-textile recycling is crucial to reducing dependence on virgin synthetics. More importantly, continued support of farmers and producers to help them transition to preferred materials is essential to drive large-scale change. At the same time, educating consumers about the environmental impact of their choices and promoting sustainable options can influence demand and accelerate industry transformation.