Government move to make BIS mark mandatory raises concerns amongst fabric makers

The government's recent decision to make the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) mark mandatory for all fabrics has sparked concerns among fabric manufacturers across the country. Industry experts argue that the move could lead to increased costs, bureaucratic hurdles, and potentially stifle innovation in the sector.

In a notification issued on Aug 28, 2024, the Ministry of Heavy Industries made the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) mark mandatory for various types of machinery and equipment, including textile weaving and embroidery machinery. As per the notification, these quality standards will be implemented in one year from the notification date. The notification specifies, all types of weaving machines (looms), along with their assemblies, sub-assemblies, or components under HSN codes 8446, 844811, 844819, 844842, and 844849, as well as embroidery machinery under HSN codes 84479020 and 844859, will be subject to BIS standards. These machines must meet Indian Standards, labelling, marking, and safety requirements as outlined by BIS.

The BIS certification process involves rigorous testing and quality checks to ensure products meet specified standards. While this measure aims to protect consumers from substandard goods, fabric makers fear that the additional requirements and fees could add to their operational expenses.

However, the Indian textile industry opines, this mandatory BIS certification will slow down the installation of high-speed machines such as Waterjet, Airjet, Rapier, and Rapier Jacquard, most of which are imported. The new regulations could disrupt the industry’s plans to install hundreds of thousands of these machines, thus making it impossible to achieve the target of $100 billion in exports and a total turnover of $250 billion by 2030.

Ashish Gujarati, President, Pandesara Weaving Cooperative Society, says, the new regulation will make it difficult to import high-speed weaving machines, but the country depends on imports for 90 per cent of these machines.” There is a growing apprehension amongst industry leaders about the potential impact on expansion and competitiveness in the global textile market. Concerns also exist about the potential impact on innovation. Some manufacturers believe that the strict adherence to BIS standards could limit their ability to experiment with new materials and designs. They argue that innovation is essential for the growth and competitiveness of the Indian textile industry.

However, proponents of the mandatory BIS mark argue that it is crucial for maintaining the quality and reputation of Indian-made fabrics in both domestic and international markets. They believe that the certification will instill consumer confidence and help boost exports.