Naturally-colored cotton faces comeback struggles despite rising global demand
India's naturally colored cotton faces numerous hurdles in its attempt to re-establish itself, despite a rising global demand for sustainable textiles and decades of dedicated government research. This specialty crop is currently cultivated on a mere 200 acre across the states of Karnataka, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh. While it commands a premium price of Rs 240 per kg (approximately $2.88 ), which is 50 per cent more than conventional cotton at Rs 160 per kg (approximately $1.92), farmers remain hesitant to expand their acreage due to drastically lower yields.
The productivity of light brown cotton is very low at 1.5-2 quintals per acre, compared to 6-7 quintals per acre for normal cotton. This discourages farmers from increasing the area under this crop, explains Ashok Kumar, Principal Scientist, ICAR-Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT).
Annual production from these limited acres amounts to a mere 330 quintals, highlighting the immense challenge facing this niche crop that holds the potential to significantly enhance India's textile sustainability credentials. ICAR-CIRCOT is currently concentrating its research efforts on light brown colored cotton varieties.
Despite these challenges, Indian agricultural institutions have developed improved varieties, such as DDCC-1, DDB-12, DMB-225, and DGC-78 from the University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad. The Central Institute for Cotton Research in Nagpur notably developed Vaidehi-95, considered one of the most promising among the four to five available varieties.
Naturally colored cotton has huge export potential. More government support is required to enhance production and value addition, Kumar emphasizes. For true commercial viability, a coordinated effort across the entire value chain is essential. This includes developing farmer-friendly varieties, establishing robust processing infrastructure, and forging strong market linkages with textile manufacturers who are genuinely committed to sustainable practices, he adds.