Zara, H&M implicated in Brazilian Cotton scandal.

A new investigation by Earthsight reveals the dark side of cotton in fast fashion. Major brands like H&M and Zara are sourcing cotton linked to environmental destruction, human rights abuses, and violence in Brazil. The culprit? Industrial cotton farming in the Cerrado, the world's most biodiverse savanna, located south of the Amazon rainforest. This area is crucial for millions of people and animals.

Half of the Cerrado's native vegetation is already gone, replaced by industrial farms. Agribusinesses are turning their focus to the Cerrado as a way to spare the Amazon, but the impact is just as severe. Deforestation rates in the Cerrado surged by 43 per cent last year, with most of it being illegal.

Brazil's cotton exports have skyrocketed in recent decades, making it the world's second-largest exporter, on track to surpass the US by 2030. This boom is fueled by the Cerrado's conversion into vast cotton fields.

The investigation exposes the human rights violations associated with this cotton production. Local communities in western Bahia, where most Brazilian cotton is grown, accuse agribusinesses of large-scale land grabbing. These communities have inhabited the Cerrado for generations, but agribusinesses are pushing them off their land. The report details intimidation, harassment, and even shootings by armed security guards working for the farms.

Both H&M and Zara claim to source cotton responsibly, relying on the Better Cotton (BC) certification. Shockingly, all the cotton investigated by Earthsight was BC-certified. However, the report finds the BC system to be riddled with flaws. Critics say BC is a form of greenwashing. It lacks robust traceability, failing to track cotton back to individual farms. Additionally, BC's human rights and environmental standards are weak, with no clear requirements to address land ownership disputes or prevent deforestation.

The report calls for urgent reforms at various levels. Earthsight proposes significant changes to the Better Cotton system. BC must require certified farms to obtain consent from indigenous communities and ensure cotton isn't grown on land illegally deforested before 2019. Independent bodies should oversee certification and audits to prevent conflicts of interest.

The report also urges H&M, Zara, and other major retailers to go beyond relying on certifications. They need to implement stricter sourcing policies and robust traceability systems to ensure ethical cotton production.