Standards and Specifications for Textiles

Understanding ASTM standards for textiles and apparel in the US

The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) plays a crucial role in ensuring the quality, safety, and performance of textiles and apparel in the US. By developing and publishing voluntary consensus standards, ASTM provides a common ground for manufacturers, retailers, consumers, and regulators. This article delves into the details of these standards, covering performance, safety, and testing methodologies for textiles and apparel.

Performance standards

ASTM's performance standards cover various aspects of textile behaviour. These standards evaluate the functional characteristics of textiles, ensuring they meet specific needs and expectations including:

Dimensional stability: Measuring shrinkage and growth after laundering or dry cleaning (e.g., ASTM D1930 for woven fabrics, ASTM D2812 for knit fabrics).

Colorfastness: Evaluating color change and staining after exposure to light, laundering, or dry cleaning (e.g., ASTM D6034 for colorfastness to drycleaning, ASTM D5034 for colorfastness to light).

Flammability: Assessing the flammability resistance of textiles for specific uses, such as sleepwear (e.g., ASTM F2259 for children's sleepwear, CFR 1633 for flammability of clothing textiles).

Tear strength and abrasion resistance: Measuring the fabric's resistance to tearing and wear, crucial for upholstery and outdoor gear (e.g., ASTM D1337 for tearing strength of woven fabrics, ASTM D4184 for abrasion resistance of textile fabrics).

Water repellency and permeability: Evaluating the fabric's ability to repel water and maintain breathability, essential for sportswear and outerwear (e.g., ASTM D5433 for water repellency of woven fabrics using the spray test, ASTM E96 for water vapor transmission rate of materials).

Safety standards

Safety is paramount in the textile industry, with ASTM standards addressing potential hazards associated with textiles and apparel, emphasizing consumer protection.

Chemical safety: Limiting the presence of harmful chemicals in textiles, especially for children's. Standards like D3501 ensure colorants used in textiles meet safety requirements, while F903-18 tests protective clothing resistance to liquid penetration.

Mechanical safety: Ensuring garments and accessories, like zippers, buttons, and cords, meet safety requirements to prevent choking and entrapment hazards (e.g., ASTM F963 for children's sleepwear, ASTM F2100 for infant and toddler clothing).

UV protection: Evaluating the effectiveness of textiles in blocking harmful ultraviolet radiation (e.g., ASTM D6603 for labeling of UV-protective textiles, ASTM D6544 for preparing textiles for UV transmission testing).

Formaldehyde content: D4150 sets limits for formaldehyde content in apparel due to potential health concerns.

Lead content: D4236 sets a maximum allowable lead content in children's paint, particularly relevant for textile accessories. 

Testing methodologies

ASTM standards outline specific testing methodologies for evaluating various performance and safety parameters. These methods ensure consistency and comparability of data across different labs and products. Some common testing methodologies include:

Physical testing: Utilizing instruments to measure fabric properties like strength, weight, and flammability.

Chemical testing: Analyzing the chemical composition of textiles to identify harmful substances. Techniques like chromatography and spectroscopy are used to quantify presence and levels of potentially harmful chemicals

Colorimetric testing or Spectrophotometry: Assessing colorfastness and changes under different conditions. It measures color properties like reflectance and absorbance, critical for colorfastnes assessment.

Performance or Martindale abrasion test: Conducting simulations of real-world wear and tear, like laundering and abrasion.

Hydrostatic pressure testing: Simulates water pressure exposure to test water resistance and repellency of fabrics.

Tabular summary

By understanding and utilizing ASTM standards, stakeholders in the textile and apparel industry can ensure product quality, safety, and consumer satisfaction. This comprehensive framework fosters confidence and trust, ultimately contributing to a more responsible and sustainable industry