Weaving yarns with uneven hairness on a commercial scale.

The world of textiles thrives on variety. From the fuzzy warmth of mohair to the rustic charm of slub cotton, yarns with uneven textures and hairiness add depth and visual interest to fabrics. However, incorporating these captivating fibers into commercial weaving presents a unique set of obstacles that can unravel efficiency and quality. Listed below are the five main hurdles weavers face while working with furry yarns and ways these issues are being tackled:

1. Disruption in production: To achieve a uniform yield commercial looms need to maintain consistent yarn tension. However, yarns with uneven textures like those with slubs or protruding fibers (hairiness) can disrupt this process. Thicker yarns can get stuck on the machine during the process of ’shedding’ causing breaks and delays in production.

2. Issues related to shedding and picking: The ‘picking’ mechanism on a loom involves grabbing the weft yarn and pushing it across the warp. However, yarns with a thicker consistency can get caught between the harnesses during shedding, leading to their breakage and stopping of the machine.

3. Disruptions in weave structure: The unevenness of hairy yarns can disrupt the intended weave structure. Thicker sections might create unwanted gaps, while protruding fibers could prevent proper interlacement between warp and weft. This can lead to a loosely woven fabric with reduced strength and a compromised drape.

4. Increased breakage: Uneven textured yarns are more susceptible to breakage during weaving. They are likely to get caught on the machine or snapped under tension, leading to higher yarn wastage and increased production costs.

5. Increase in maintenance of looms: Yarn with uneven textures may necessitate additional maintenance in commercial looms that are calibrated for specific yarn types and tensions. These looms may require frequent adjustments to tension settings, picking mechanisms, and shedding levers due to the uneven texture of the yarn. This may also increase loom’s down time,

Overcoming the hurdles

Despite these challenges, weavers continue to use yarns with unique textures as they tackle these issues in the following ways:

• Developing specialized yarns: Manufacturers are developing yarns specifically designed to handle yarns with uneven textures. These looms have modified picking mechanisms, tension control systems, or shedding devices to handle the variations.

• Using pre-treatment techniques: Manufacturers are using techniques like singeing (burning off protruding fibers) or light shearing to reduce hairiness while minimizing damage to the yarn's core. They also apply lubricants to improve yarn strength and manageability.

• Selecting specific weave structure: Manufacturers are selecting specific weave structures to accommodate yarns with uneven textures. They are opting for open weaves with larger spaces between threads for better yarn movement and reduced snagging. Additionally, manufacturers are placing hairy yarns strategically within the weave design to minimize structural weaknesses.

• Weaving at a slow speed: Manufacturers are weaving at a slower pace to control yarn breakage during shedding and picking. Experienced weavers are also using wider reed spaces (the comb-like device separating warp threads) to provide more room for the hairy sections to pass through.

• Loom maintenance: To weave hairy yarns successfully, weavers are focusing on the loom’s maintenance. They ensure regular cleaning of the picking mechanism and harnesses, along with prompt replacement of worn parts.

Weaving with uneven textured yarns presents many new design opportunities. By employing innovative solutions, weavers are transforming these tangled threads into captivating and commercially viable fabrics.