Cotton Losing Threads: Shirt industry stitches a future with MMF
The global shirt industry is undergoing a change, with cotton facing growing challenge from man-made fibers. This shift is driven by a number of factors viz, functionality, affordability, and product trends.
A choice between cost and performance
While cotton boasts of breathability and natural comfort, its price fluctuations and water-intensive cultivation are painting a less attractive picture. As per studies, man-made fibers (MMF) currently hold a whopping 70 per cent share in global fiber consumption. Experts point to several factors and affordability is one major reason. "Consumers are willing to pay more for a shirt that offers superior performance and comfort," says Sarah Jones, a textile analyst. Brands are responding by offering a range of options catering to different budgets and needs. Synthetic fibers are generally cheaper to produce, making them ideal for fast fashion and budget-conscious consumers. A case in point is fast fashion brand H&M which has actively incorporated recycled polyester into its clothing lines, touting its affordability and sustainability benefits.
Functional fabrics in the forefront
Beyond cost, synthetic fibers offer functionalities that cotton struggles to match. Analysts at Apparel Views highlight the growing demand for performance-driven textiles. Polyester and nylon blends are known for their wrinkle-resistant properties, requiring less ironing – a major perk in today's busy lifestyles. Synthetic fibers offer features like wrinkle resistance, moisture-wicking, and durability, points out Faruk Hasan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). These features are particularly sought after in activewear and performance shirts, but are increasingly finding their way into everyday wear as well.
Growing popularity of blends
While synthetics are gaining ground, pure polyester isn't the only story. Blended fabrics, particularly cotton-polyester mixes, offer a compromise. Industry estimates suggest man-made fibers already hold a significant 70 per cent share of global fiber consumption. These blends combine the breathability of cotton with the wrinkle resistance and affordability of synthetics. In future, there will be a rise in hybrid fabrics that combine the comfort of cotton with the functionality of synthetics.
For example, regenerated cellulose fibers like rayon are gaining traction. Made from wood pulp, these fibers offer a natural alternative to synthetics while maintaining some of their functional benefits. Some studies indicate, rayon has displaced wool in many important uses, including shirting, due to its affordability and comfort. Fashion trends also play a role. The rise of athleisure and activewear, with their focus on moisture-wicking and flexibility, has pushed up demand for synthetic fabrics specifically designed for performance. Patagonia, a leader in outdoor apparel, exemplifies this trend. Their ‘Capilene Cool Lightweight Shirt’ is made with a recycled polyester blend that prioritizes moisture-wicking and breathability, perfect for active pursuits.
The global landscape, a mixed fabric basket
However, the shift towards synthetics isn't uniform across the globe. The US market for example is a complex picture. While synthetics dominate apparel consumption (around 75 per cent), cotton imports still hold a slight edge over man-made fibers. Rising oil prices, which impact synthetic fiber production, could temporarily swing the pendulum back towards cotton.
The European market shows a growing interest in sustainable alternatives. Regenerated cellulose fibers, like viscose rayon derived from wood pulp, are gaining traction due to their eco-friendly appeal. However, even in Europe, the demand for wrinkle-free and easy-care shirts is driving a rise in synthetic blends.
The future of shirt fabrics likely lies in innovation. Sustainable alternatives like Tencel, a wood-based fiber, are gaining traction. "We're seeing a growing interest in eco-friendly synthetics made from recycled materials," says Marie Dubois, a fashion designer specializing in sustainable clothing. The industry is also exploring new ways to improve the comfort and breathability of synthetics, potentially blurring the lines between natural and man-made fibers.
The cotton shirt may not be facing extinction, but it's clear the industry is weaving a new narrative. Consumers seeking function, affordability, and sustainability will have a wider range of fabrics to choose from, ensuring a comfortable and stylish fit for the future.