The hidden dangers of microplastics in textiles, a wake-up call for the industry
A groundbreaking report published by the Bremen Cotton Exchange, authored by analyst Veronica Bates Kassatly and statistician Terry Townsend, has unveiled alarming findings about the prevalence of microplastics in textiles. While the environmental and health concerns surrounding cotton production have long been debated, this report shifts the focus to synthetic fibers, revealing their significant contribution to the global microplastic crisis.
The microplastic menace
Microplastics—tiny plastic particles less than 5 mm in size—are now ubiquitous, infiltrating ecosystems, food chains, and even human bodies. The report highlights mounting evidence linking microplastics and nanoplastics to serious health issues, including heart attacks, strokes, and even death. More disturbingly, researchers have detected microplastics in the bone marrow of leukemia patients and in the brains of individuals with dementia and Alzheimer’s disease. Some affected brain samples contained plastic concentrations up to ten times higher than those found in healthy individuals.
The implications of these findings are profound, raising concerns about long-term exposure to plastic-based textiles and the potential consequences for human health. Given that synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and PET (polyethylene terephthalate) dominate the fashion industry, their role in microplastic pollution demands urgent attention.
Toxic chemicals in synthetic fibers
One of the most alarming aspects of the report is the sheer number of chemicals associated with synthetic fibers. The authors identified 2,566 different chemicals used in, present in, or released from PET fibers. Yet, comprehensive hazard data is available for only a fraction of them. While 31 chemicals have been classified as non-hazardous, 31 per cent are confirmed hazardous, and the potential risks of the remaining majority remain unknown.
This knowledge gap underscores the pressing need for further scientific investigation into the toxicity of these chemicals. If hazardous substances are embedded in everyday textiles, their effects on human health and environmental safety must be fully understood.
Plastic microfibers, a unique and overlooked threat
The report also makes a crucial distinction between plastic-based microfibers and other textile fibers. Unlike natural fibers, plastic microfibers do not break down easily, accumulating in soil, water, and living organisms. Recognizing this, the European Commission’s March 2024 resolution on the Green Claims Directive has mandated that microplastic assessments be included in the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) for Apparel and Footwear.
However, the report raises serious concerns about the reliability of current Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) and PEFs. According to Bates Kassatly and Townsend, many of the sources used in these assessments are not independent scientific organizations but rather entities funded by industries with vested interests in synthetic fiber production. This conflict of interest undermines the credibility of environmental legislation and delays the implementation of effective solutions.
The case for transparency
In light of these alarming findings, the report advocates for greater transparency in the fashion industry’s value chain. Bates Kassatly and Townsend recommend that LCAs and PEFs explicitly state that plastic fibers contain hazardous chemicals and pose risks throughout a product’s lifecycle. Their most striking recommendation, however, is the proposal to introduce warning labels on all synthetic fiber-based products—similar to health warnings on tobacco packaging. This measure would alert consumers to the potential risks associated with synthetic textiles and encourage more informed purchasing decisions.
What’s next?
The report by Bates Kassatly and Townsend paints a stark picture of the hidden dangers of synthetic textiles. With microplastics now firmly linked to severe health conditions, and the fashion industry’s reliance on synthetic fibers growing, the need for urgent action is undeniable.
Moving forward, policymakers, industry leaders, and consumers must push for:
- Independent, unbiased scientific assessments of microfiber pollution.
- Stricter regulations on hazardous chemicals in textile production.
- Clear labelling and transparency to empower consumers with the knowledge they need to make safer choices.
Microplastics are no longer just an environmental issue—they are a public health crisis. The fashion industry must confront this reality, and the world must take notice.