BCI tightens rules after Brazil cotton abuses.

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the world's largest cotton sustainability program, is facing scrutiny after an investigation linked its certified farms to environmental and human rights abuses in Brazil. Earthsight, an NGO, found ‘tainted cotton’ from these farms ending up with major brands like H&M and Zara.

BCI claims its standards weren't breached on the specific farms investigated. However, they acknowledge a need for stricter oversight. Currently, BCI focuses on individual farms, not considering the broader activities of their owners. They plan to expand due diligence to cover corporate farm ownership.

BCI CEO, Alan McClay, admits the need to go "beyond the farm gate" to ensure practices align with their mission. The organization has faced criticism for a slow response, with Zara's owner demanding faster action.

BCI is working with Brazil's cotton association to strengthen its standards and will consult with stakeholders to improve oversight. They expect an update in May, including feedback from local communities. BCI acknowledges the need for improvement in due diligence and effective partnerships.