Texworld bio-innovators weave a sustainable future for fashion
By 2030, the fashion industry's dependence on fossil fuels for garments will hit a staggering 75 per cent. This alarming statistic puts pressure on bio-innovators to break the industry's addiction to polyester and other unsustainable materials.
At Texworld NYC, a panel titled "Next-Gen Materials and Fiber Innovation" explored how these pioneers are tackling this challenge. From squid protein to bacteria-grown textiles, the discussion showcased a range of fascinating biomaterials and the journeys they take from concept to market.
From Squid to Sustainable: Julie Willoughby, representing Tandem Repeat Technologies, explained their "Squitex" protein fiber, highlighting its versatility. By manipulating the protein sequence, they can control the material's properties, creating anything from soft, drape-y fabrics to sturdy, technical textiles.
Biodegradable Polyester: Kintra Fibers takes a different approach, focusing on biodegradable alternatives to traditional synthetics. Their "Kintra" polyester uses plant-based feedstocks instead of petroleum, making it a sustainable and eco-friendly choice.
Microbial Magic: Modern Synthesis taps into the power of microbes to create a new class of textile. Their bacteria-grown nanocellulose is strong, lightweight, and incredibly versatile, offering a potential replacement for even materials like leather.
Plant-Powered Fur: Inspired by the cruelty of the fur industry, BioFluff's co-founder Martin Stübler developed "Savian," a luxurious fur alternative made from 100 per cent renewable plant fibers like nettle, flax, and hemp. This innovation caught the eye of Stella McCartney, who used it in her COP28 collection.
Brand Partnerships
While the science behind these materials is impressive, scaling them up for commercial use requires collaboration. Modern Synthesis partnered with Ganni to develop a bacteria-based version of their popular Bou Bag, while Kintra works with brands like Reformation and Bestseller to test and refine their materials.
Challenges and Opportunities
Scaling up and integrating these new technologies into existing supply chains present significant challenges. Patience and flexibility are key, as Gupta from Kintra emphasizes: "These are not six-month or one-year projects. There's multiple stages of testing, and it takes time."
Despite the hurdles, bio-innovators remain optimistic. Keane from Modern Synthesis sees existing infrastructure as an opportunity: "We've been looking at how we can use existing machinery to make really cool materials."
The future of fashion is woven with threads of innovation and sustainability. Bio-innovators are leading the charge, offering solutions that are not only good for the planet but also push the boundaries of what textiles can be. With continued collaboration and a commitment to overcoming challenges, these bio-based materials have the potential to revolutionize the fashion industry and create a more sustainable future for all.